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Bealach a' Chomhla - Daniel and Clare's photos (10th December 2012)

But first, ice where we didn't expect it...


After yesterday's spectacular, fast-moving rain and light, today gradually emerged as clear as a bell, and beautifully crisp: a perfect winter day.

Before we set off for Coire Mhic Nòbaill, we had a dawn diversion down to the loch: all of 10 yards or so, but we spent some time there. Surely not, but yes, the sea was starting to freeze!

We were initially heading for Coire na Caime, but at the junction just beyond the bridge over the Abhainn Choire Mhic Nòbuil (N882591), we headed left to head upwards to get close to Beinn Alligin, and perhaps catch some sunshine; our objective was now the Bealach between Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg.

A little diversion in the direction of Tom na Gruagaich kept us on the west of the Allt a' Bhealaich, so when we got higher up, we were on the wrong side of it to get to Càrn Doineig, but we did at least see it from a little way above. The sad story behind this particular march cairn is beautifully told in Murdoch MacDonald's "Walking into the past". Also in Brenda Macrow's book. We hope one day to make another trip to see it close to.

We got back to the road at about 5 p.m., so it was only very dim twilight: too dark to go back to Lochside directly through the woods and along the estate road. So instead we walked the long way round, on the public road from the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park towards Fasag, picking up the estate road at its other end. Under the stars - brilliant, brilliant stars, with the distinctive profile of Sgorr A'Chadail high above to our left - what a day that hill blessed us with on our previous visit to Lochside. Tonight, there wasn't a hint of haze or moonlight to fade this stellar show.

The cold deepened as darkness completed: would the sea still be frozen tomorrow? But for now, we just couldn't keep our eyes off the milky way and the great ridge ahead of us. The end of another fabulous day...

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The sea at Upper Loch Torridon: freezing begins::
10th December:  first light (8.15ish) suggested the reflections would be good (the moon is a bit wavy due to weed near the shore?  The slight blur is due to us not having a tripod etc.!).  There was frost on the grass and ice on the shore
10th December: first light (8.15ish) suggested the reflections would be good (the moon is a bit wavy due to weed near the shore? The slight blur is due to us not having a tripod etc.!). There was frost on the grass and ice on the shore
Half an hour later, with the reflections brighter now... Half an hour later, with the reflections brighter now... Half an hour later, with the reflections brighter now...
...but another hour on, and the whole loch was fuzzy:  yes, it was freezing rapidly - while a bright day was just getting going. ...but another hour on, and the whole loch was fuzzy: yes, it was freezing rapidly - while a bright day was just getting going.
With the tide out, the seaweed was well draped with ice...
With the tide out, the seaweed was well draped with ice...
...well patterned in places...
...well patterned in places...
...but thin and fragile as yet
...but thin and fragile as yet
Frosted seaweed Frosted seaweed
Frosted seaweed
Coire Mhic Nòbaill::
This ice was on the estate pond, just by the path through the woods to Coire Mhic Nòbuill (just the  other side of the old kennels)
This ice was on the estate pond, just by the path through the woods to Coire Mhic Nòbuill (just the other side of the old kennels)
Early sun on Beinn Alligin's Tom na Gruagaich, seen from the road bridge at the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park Early sun on Beinn Alligin's Tom na Gruagaich, seen from the road bridge at the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park
Early sun on Beinn Alligin's Tom na Gruagaich, seen from the road bridge at the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park
Still some faint morning colour on the Horns of Beinn Alligin...
Still some faint morning colour on the Horns of Beinn Alligin...
...which were more fully revealed a bit further up the path
...which were more fully revealed a bit further up the path
Contrasting light:  early view of Beinn Dearg, still in the forested part of the Coire.  The cloud looked a bit ominous, but soon disappeared.
Contrasting light: early view of Beinn Dearg, still in the forested part of the Coire. The cloud looked a bit ominous, but soon disappeared.
Tom na Gruagaich
Tom na Gruagaich
The three summits of Beinn Alligin:  Tom na Gruagaich (left), Sgùrr Mòr (middle) and the Horns (right)
The three summits of Beinn Alligin: Tom na Gruagaich (left), Sgùrr Mòr (middle) and the Horns (right)
Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic N&ogravebuil - a much photographed waterfall Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic N&ogravebuil - a much photographed waterfall
Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil - a much photographed waterfall
Heading up towards the Bealach a' Chomhla::
Both arms of Beinn Dearg are clear from the fine new bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil
Both arms of Beinn Dearg are clear from the fine new bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil
Beinn Eighe Detail of Beinn Eighe's Sail Mhòr, with the north end of Ruadh-Stac Mòr behind
Beinn Eighe
Heading up beside the  Allt a' Bhealaich:  more waterfalls
Heading up beside the Allt a' Bhealaich: more waterfalls
There's also a sturdy bridge over the Allt a' Bhealaich:  Beinn Dearg from the bridge...
There's also a sturdy bridge over the Allt a' Bhealaich: Beinn Dearg from the bridge...
...and the view downstream
...and the view downstream
We went off the path to the west.  Unlike the previous photo of Beinn Dearg, this one has no automatic contrast-reduction, so the colours are more their natural strength
We went off the path to the west. Unlike the previous photo of Beinn Dearg, this one has no automatic contrast-reduction, so the colours are more their natural strength
In the sun:  left-to-right are Liathach's Sgorr a' Chadail, Beinn Damh (Sgùrr na Bana-Mhoraire), Beinn Shieldaig, and the Applecross peninsula.
In the sun: left-to-right are Liathach's Sgorr a' Chadail, Beinn Damh (Sgùrr na Bana-Mhoraire), Beinn Shieldaig, and the Applecross peninsula.
Tom na Gruagaich - "swags" of snow
Tom na Gruagaich - "swags" of snow
Indentations in the snow on Sgùrr Mhòr
Indentations in the snow on Sgùrr Mhòr
Liathach's Spidean a' Choire Lèith (rightmost skyline)
Liathach's Spidean a' Choire Lèith (rightmost skyline)
Near the bealach now:  Baosbheinn
Near the bealach now: Baosbheinn
..and a similar view later, on the way back
..and a similar view later, on the way back
At the Bealach::
The hidden side of the Horns (Na Rathanan and An t-Sàil Bheg)...
The hidden side of the Horns (Na Rathanan and An t-Sàil Bheg)...
...and further down the slopes:  the outflow from Loch Toll nam Biast - an enchanting place:  we came down this way when we climbed Beinn Alligin (Tom and Sgùrr Mhòr, but not the Horns) in 2000
...and further down the slopes: the outflow from Loch Toll nam Biast - an enchanting place: we came down this way when we climbed Beinn Alligin (Tom and Sgùrr Mhòr, but not the Horns) in 2000
Beinn Dearg, from the Bealach Beinn Dearg, from the Bealach
Beinn Dearg, from the Bealach
Mullach an Rathain - the summit (left) and ridge down to Sgorr a' Chadail, again viewed from the Bealach Mullach an Rathain - the summit (left) and ridge down to Sgorr a' Chadail, again viewed from the Bealach
Mullach an Rathain - the summit (left) and ridge down to Sgorr a' Chadail, again viewed from the Bealach
Frozen sphagnum
Frozen sphagnum
Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eòin (right), with a strong shadow of Beinn Alligin
Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eòin (right), with a strong shadow of Beinn Alligin
Left-to-right:  Baosbheinn, Beinn an Eòin, Beinn Lair, A'Mhaighdean, Slioch, Beinn a' Chearcaill, Meall a' Ghiuthais, Beinn Dearg, Mullach an Rathain
Left-to-right: Baosbheinn, Beinn an Eòin, Beinn Lair, A'Mhaighdean, Slioch, Beinn a' Chearcaill, Meall a' Ghiuthais, Beinn Dearg, Mullach an Rathain
Beinn Lair, and A'Mhaighdean (left), Slioch (right)
Beinn Lair, and A'Mhaighdean (left), Slioch (right)
Ice::
Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths
Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths
Returning::
Liathach
Liathach
Beinn Dearg, in softer hues now
Beinn Dearg, in softer hues now
Evening light Evening light Evening light
Evening light Coming off the hill:  the woods near the Coire Mhic Nòbuill road bridge Evening light

(Text and photos by Daniel and Clare Gordon. March 2013).

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