A walk that wasn't quite, and may never be again?

This was one the best walks we've done - aided by some wonderful light, and great conditions for viewing what could be Scotland's most underrated waterfall. Even though we didn't quite make it to the top of Beinn A'Chearcaill, or any other hill... It didn't detract from the day at all, so blessed were we with space, light and colour, and air.

There's a route map on our Walk Highlands website report for this walk (at the bottom of the page).

Two years previously (2009), we'd spent a week at Camasnagaul. Each day during that week we set out with a walk in mind - fairly modest objectives, mainly, and on not one day did we complete it. On not one day did we think we'd had anything other than a great time - alternative delights diverted us, or we just enjoyed lingering. A lesson there, perhaps? [We're hoping to post some stuff about that holiday soon].

Back to 2011... The weather didn't start too well on this walk, and we were feeling pretty slow and tired, but the forecast was OK, so we prepared for a longish day out, just in case. We hoped to make it at least to the Talladale Falls.

We'd seen only one written reference to these falls, which described them as being as good as anything in the far northwest Highlands (and also was surprised at the lack of other references). We weren't disappointed. But there is a hydro scheme proposed for Talladale and Grudie, so the character of the falls and its surroundings may change soon. For better or worse, is not for us to say. Anyway, we've written this first part of the walk separately: please click on Talladale Falls for more details. Here is a summary:

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The main falls at Talladale

The setting of the main falls: Liathach (far left) and Beinn Dearg (centre) on the skyline

Lichen on the way to the falls

The main falls

We were very lucky to catch them after a night of torrential rain, but in bright light.

It was into the afternoon before we left the Falls, still not sure how far we'd get but we and the weather were starting to warm up, so we continued up the west flank of Beinn A'Chearcaill in hope. The wilderness of Srath Lungard gave an impressive sense of space.

The most praised feature of Beinn A'Chearcaill is the view of Liathach from the Beinn's summit. Joe Cornish's book has a splendid example. ("Scotland's Mountains" - Aurum Press, 2009. The picture is on page 114). This was about the only view we didn't get on the mountain, but we rather liked a similar perspective on Liathach, framed instead by Beinn A'Chearcaill (left) and Beinn Dearg - forming a graceful bowl as a contrast to the angular outline of Liathach, showing here only a hint of its awesome precipitousness:

Srath Lungard (lower): Talladale gorge backed by Meallan Garbhaig

Srath Lungard (mid), with Beinn an Eoin behind

Upper Srath Lungard, towards Beinn Dearg

Liathach, framed by Beinn A'Cheircaill (left) and Beinn Dearg (right), up the Srath

We arrived on the shoulder south of A Choineach Beag. This is a large, complex area, with much exposed, horizontal sandstone, glacially scoured, with other glacial debris. There are many delightful lochans between here and the summit plateau.

Lochans on the shoulder of Beinn A'Cheircaill (west)...	...and east	Wavy shapes on the shoulder (foreground); Meall a Ghiuthais (left), Beinn Eighe (right)	Sandstone slab on plateau
Sandy peat and boulders on the shoulder	Meall a Ghiuthais, from a part of the shoulder with a fairly typical patchwork of terrains...		...and a closer view of the with striking geology on the Meall

We got as far as the summit plateau, reaching it at the little raise at the west end (marked 663 metres on current maps - NG931645). It had taken us a long time, free-ranging for a good few miles, and we wanted to give ourselves plenty of time to free-range down the other side and get back to the road at Grudie Bridge before it got dark, and still have time to enjoy it. So we went east a little and along the escarpment, but decided not to go to the actual summit. Instead we paused for a while to enjoy the panorama to the north.

Here are some views from the broad shoulder and plateau of Beinn A'Cheircaill.

Srath Lungard and Talladale gorge	Looking into the Letterewe wilderness	Views to the Isles
A Choineach Beag, Loch Maree, Slioch and the Letterewe Mountains

Sun, cloud, brightness and ominous shadow, rainbows - they kept coming... We headed down towards the lochan at NG937653:

Rainbows on Slioch, from the shoulder

The lochan at NG937653, leading to Coire Briste

...and a pool a little downstream, just before the outflow swings south towards the Choire

Near the stream at the top of the Coire Briste we found a path. This was a bonus as it wasn't on any map we've seen, nor had we read of it. It looked like a little-used stalkers' path: obviously well engineered once, somewhat faint and boggy in places now, but still a very useful guide back to the Glen Grudie path.

Coire Briste has some good moraine at the bottom, and fine views up the Glen, particularly of Beinn Eighe (with its own spectacular moraines). And of course to Slioch:

Coire Briste from the top of the Coire

Looking southwards across Coire Briste

Slioch from the north of Coire Briste

Beinn Eighe from lower down the Coire

The views of Slioch became ever more compelling as we descended:

Slioch (right) and Beinn Lair, with Loch Maree, from near the bottom of Coire Briste

..Looking from the main Grudie path, over the lower gorge above Grudie Bridge

The evening light highlighting the topography below Slioch

..particularly the Torridonian infill of the Lewisian valleys

The light became softer, though further up Glen Grudie still looked pretty wild - the path is a long way from the river here. But Beinn Eighe's final view of the day got a little colour. The banding on Beinn A'Mhuinidh, to the right of Slioch, was very clear. Then, remarkably, a third (and fourth) rainbow by Slioch.

Beinn Eighe from Glen Grudie

Further up Glen Grudie from the Bridge: on the left the shadow of Beinn A'Cheircaill follows another river in its own gorge

Horizontal banding on Beinn a'Mhuinidh (to the right of Slioch)

Double rainbow by Slioch

The Glen Grudie path is excellent from the bottom of Coire Briste to the Loch Maree road, so getting off Beinn A'Cheircaill was a lot easier than we expected. The sun set as we plodded along the road, arriving back at the log cabin at about 11.30, some 14 hours after we left, and in fair darkness. A fabulous day out. It was thought-provoking in many ways - the hiddenness of the Talladale Falls, and the possible imminent changes to it; our fragility in the wild, and the fragility of the wilds themselves to mankind's degradation of all sorts. But above all the views and the light, and the beauty of it all.

To finish with, here is some wildlife from the walk, and the sunset. We hope you've enjoyed the page.

Lichen near the top of Coire Briste	Lichen on the west flank of Beinn A'Cheircaill	Newt (?) in Glen Grudie	Wave in moss hummock - Coire Briste
Sunset

(Text and photos by Daniel and Clare Gordon. August 2011).

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